Trek to Roopkund - Part 3

Day 3 - Didna to Ali Bugyal

Ali Bugyal, our destination for today, has been claimed to be one of the most beautiful camp sites on this trek. ‘Bugyal’, in Garhwali, means a meadow. I have been dreaming about walking in the Himalayan meadows, just after the rains, when it’s all lush green, ever since I registered for this trek.

Breakfast is delicious as usual, aloo parathas and some fruits. Since today we have to walk a little longer, we get a snack pack of a boiled egg and a roasted potato. Yesterday, it was a little difficult walking in the sun, so all of us have prayed for overcast skies, but no rain. And that is precisely what we get.... :) Our prayers are being heard loud and clear.

Sardar Bhai

As we start walking, the group of 12 gets sorted into sub-

gangs depending on our pace. I find myself in front, walking just behind Sardar bhai. I ask him about his life in his village Lohajung, and his family. He has a little daughter, ‘10 saal ke aas paas hogi.’ What keeps him occupied in the non-trekking season? ‘Kuchh khaas nahi, thodi kheti hai. Humare kheto mein rajma, ramdaana hota hai.’ How many times has he been to Roopkund? ‘Plenty... I have lost count’. I ask him if we will be able to go to Junargali. (It is a little further ahead from Roopkund; a friend has recommended it to me. The view from there should not be missed out on, he had said.) Sardar bhai replies, ‘Bilkul ja sakte hai... Aap chaloge to ja sakte hai.’

The LOTR forest

We have been walking for about half an hour now, and we have entered the oak forests on these slopes. The dense trees, their barks covered with green moss, the softly drizzling rain, and the beam of sunlight making its way through the tree canopies... makes us feel like Frodo, travelling through the forest with the ring. A little further up the mountain, we come to a little cluster of huts. This place is called Tolpani. These huts are temporary set-ups by shepherds, who come to the meadows with their cattle herds for a few days. We meet a group of kids here, all of them extremely inquisitive, bright and sharp. They tell us why this place is called Tolpani. ‘Pehle yaha paani ki kami thi. Nandadevi maa yaha sabko tol ke paani deti thi.’ Hence the name ‘Tolpani’. ( Dunno how much to believe... ;) )

After a short rest, its forward march again. The climb is quite steep now, and the gap between the trekkers increases. I see a couple of locals coming from the opposite direction. They know Sardar bhai. One of them calls out to him, ‘Ye baaraat leke kaha ja rahe ho? Koi band baaja nahi hai?’ Sardar bhai points to my tired face. ‘Roopkund ja rahe hai. Lekin ye baaraat to abhi se thak gai bhaiya.’ I go red in the face. We are huffing and puffing, but this path is a piece of cake for them. I am always in awe of mountain folks – simple living, hard working, ever smiling. ‘Abhi to thaoda hi chale ho madam... abhi aage bohot chalna hai.’ They continue down the slope, and disappear from sight in moments.

This steep climb continues for a little while, and then we reach a place called ‘Tolkaan’. Its almost 12 now. There is a short break and we eat the boiled eggs and the potato. Refuelled, we continue walking. Sandeep tells us that the climb is over, its almost flat ground now. Which is bosh-talk, as we soon realise. Through the rest of the trek we would learn that when Sandeep says its flat ground, its actually steep; when he says its steep, its actually extremely steep; when Sardar bhai says its only 10 minutes more to go, its actually an hour more.

The tree line

Eventually, we reach the end of the forest. After this we won’t be seeing any more trees. The tree line, as it is called is very interesting.  One moment there are a lot of trees, one step further, there are none. This is where the meadows start. The grass is green on all sides, strewn with little colourful flowers and mushrooms. The clouds are getting thicker now, and veil the views of the valley. Jagdish sir opens his ‘pitaara’, and out come yummy gujju snacks – thepla and khakra, which all of us eagerly line up for.

Ali Bugyal

Here on, the walk is most pleasant, meandering through the lush green Bugyal, occasionally coming across a herd of cows or horses. The soft drizzle converts into insistent rain, and as the sun is on the last leg of his days journey, it starts getting quite cold. Ravi, Alhad, Vineeta and me are in front, and our pace increases considerably coz we want to reach the camp before it starts really pouring. A slight turn to the right, and we see the trekkers huts. As we reach the huts, the rain intensifies. Once everyone is in, tea is served. After a little while, at around 4, lunch is served.

 This is where we were supposed to get the first view of the great Trishul peak, but we only get to see it late in the evening when the clouds clear up a little. We have to stay cooped up in the hut because of the rain. At dinner time, nobody is really hungry. But once the food is spread out in front of us, our appetites come back. (It happens exactly the other way round at office – I lose my appetite at the sight of food.) Everybody is singing praises of Mahesh bhai’s daal and kheer.

Sleep comes easily – I dream of slopes with pretty pink and white flowers, mule bells ringing melodiously in my head.

                 

First glimpse of the snow clad peaks